Bad news for Retinol fans

Retinol enthusiasts may have already seen it in the news, but high doses of Retinol are discouraged by the European scientific health watchdog. It has advised that by the end of 2026, high percentages (from 0.3%) of Retinol will no longer be permitted in our beloved creams.

How does that work?

Retinol belongs to the vitamin A family. Vitamin A is found in our food, but there are also, for example, anti-aging conscious people who take an extra shot via dietary supplements. Although exposure to vitamin A through cosmetic products is generally low, it can become critical for the group of consumers who already consume vitamin A from other sources. Retinol can then build up in our bodies and subsequently cause damage, such as osteoporosis, liver problems, and symptoms like nausea, irritation, headaches, fatigue, hair loss, eye problems, and dry lips.[i].

Moreover, you can question the high percentages of active ingredients in cosmetics. Are they actually good and effective for the skin? Do the pros and cons balance each other out? This depends on where you apply it, the condition of the skin, and your personal characteristics. Every skin—sensitive, thick, or fragile—can react differently to cosmetics. And with Retinol, 'one size fits all' certainly does not apply. Dry skin, for example, is capable of absorbing a relatively large amount. In combination with hormonal fluctuations and sensitive skin, you run the risk of a strong reaction to sunlight. Unintended cumulative effects then lead to skin damage that is difficult to repair. Therefore, always use high sun protection with Retinol—preferably of a mineral composition!

What happens next?

Is the fun over now, then? Because yes, Retinol is also versatile and very effective. Through its positive effect on cell division and collagen production, it promotes our natural skin firming. Thanks to Retinol, pimples can no longer eat away at the skin, and our pigment is distributed better. These are just a few of the fantastic properties of Retinol.

But rest assured. To maintain your skin improvement after a facial, you can perfectly well use products with a lower Retinol percentage, such as 0.3% for the face. This is safe for many skin types and still effective. However, you can also look at other skin-improving ingredients, such as Bakuchiol. Research has shown that Bakuchiol has similar benefits to Retinol in combating photoaging. Bakuchiol is now seen as a promising alternative to Retinol because the skin tolerates this substance better. You can purchase these products at Medicademis, so feel free to stop by for advice during a free intake.

The future comes from the East…

At the same time, we are also seeing another important trend. With the rise of Asian cosmetics in the Netherlands, there is a shift in the philosophy of skincare. While vitamin A has become commonplace and an industrial bulk product, we see a contrasting interest among consumers. They are increasingly focusing their attention on high-quality ingredients with minimal side effects, where the skin barrier takes center stage and the skin's microbiome is promoted. The skin improvement results achieved with this are remarkable. This will most likely be the clove and pepper of the 21st century.^ste century. In a subsequent article, I will discuss my ideas regarding the microbiome and the application of bacteria to improve the skin. Because you can also turn to Medicadermis for this.

Update 18-6-2024 - Additional requirements: In addition to retinol, restrictions have also been imposed on other substances such as Alpha-Arbutin, Arbutin, Triclocarban, Triclosan, Genistein, Daidzein, and Kojic Acid, for which specific concentration limits and phase-out periods have also been established.

Sources and footnotes

• European Commission. (2023). Commission Regulation (EU) …/… of XXX amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the use of Vitamin A, Alpha-Arbutin and Arbutin and certain substances with potential endocrine disrupting properties in cosmetic products. Accessed on 19/06/2023.
• COSlaw EUand EUR-Lex Accessed on 18/06/2024.
• Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S.R., Notay, M., Trivedi, M., Burney, W., ... Sivamani, R.K. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoaging. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289-296.
• Puyana, C. MD, MSPH, Chandan, N. MD, MPH, & Tsoukas, M. MD, PhD. (2022). Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
• [i] It is not recommended to use Retinol during pregnancy.
• If vitamin A poisoning is suspected, it is always advisable to seek medical advice.