Bad news for Retinol fans

Retinol lovers may have already seen it in the news, but high doses of Retinol are being discouraged by the European scientific watchdog for health. They have advised that by the end of 2026, high percentages (from 0.3%) of Retinol will no longer be allowed in our beloved creams.

How does that work?

Retinol belongs to the vitamin A family. A is found in our food, but there are also anti-aging conscious people who take an extra shot through food supplements. Although in general the exposure to vitamin A through cosmetic products is low, it can become critical for the group of consumers who already take vitamin A from other sources. Retinol can then build up in our body and subsequently cause damage, such as osteoporosis, liver problems, and complaints such as nausea, irritation, headaches, fatigue, hair loss, eye problems and dry lips [i] .

In addition, you can question high percentages of active ingredients in cosmetics. Are they really good and effective for the skin? Do the advantages and disadvantages outweigh each other? This again depends on where you apply it, what the condition of the skin is and your personal characteristics. Every skin - sensitive, thick or vulnerable - can react differently to cosmetics. And with Retinol, 'one size fits all' certainly does not apply. For example, dry skin is able to absorb relatively much. In combination with hormonal fluctuations and sensitive skin, you then have a chance of a strong sunlight reaction. Unintended cumulative effects then lead to skin damage that is difficult to repair. Therefore, always use high sun protection with Retinol - preferably of mineral composition!

What now?

Is the fun over now? Because yes, Retinol is also versatile and very effective. Due to its positive effect on cell division and collagen production, it promotes our natural skin firming. Thanks to Retinol, pimples can no longer eat along and our pigment is better distributed. These are just a few of the fantastic properties of Retinol.

But don't worry. To maintain your skin improvement after a facial treatment, you can use products with a lower Retinol percentage. Such as 0.3% for the face. This is safe for many skin types and still effective. But you can also look at other skin-improving ingredients, such as Bakuchiol. Research has shown that Bakuchiol has similar benefits to Retinol in combating photoaging. Bakuchiol is now seen as a promising alternative to Retinol because the skin tolerates this substance better. You can buy these products at Medicadermis, so feel free to come by for advice during a free intake.

The future comes from the East…

At the same time, we also see another important trend. With the rise of Asian cosmetics in the Netherlands, there is a shift in the philosophy of skin care. Where vitamin A is now commonplace and an industrial bulk product, we see an opposite interest among consumers. They are increasingly focusing on high-quality ingredients with minimal side effects. Where the skin barrier is central and the microbiome of the skin is promoted. The skin improvement results with this are remarkable. This will most likely become the clove and pepper of the ^21st century. In a next article I will discuss my ideas about the microbiome and the application of bacteria to improve the skin. Because you can also go to Medicadermis for this.

Update 18-6-2024 - Additional requirements : In addition to retinol, restrictions have also been imposed on other substances such as Alpha-Arbutin, Arbutin, Triclocarban, Triclosan, Genistein, Daidzein and Kojic Acid. Specific concentration limits and phase-out periods have also been established.

Sources and footnotes

• European Commission. (2023). Commission Regulation (EU) …/… of XXX amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the use of Vitamin A, Alpha-Arbutin and Arbutin and certain substances with potential endocrine disrupting properties in cosmetic products. Accessed on 19/06/2023.
• COSlaw EU​ and EUR-Lex Accessed 18/06/2024.
• Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S.R., Notay, M., Trivedi, M., Burney, W., ... Sivamani, R.K. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoaging. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289-296.
• Puyana, C. MD, MSPH, Chandan, N. MD, MPH, & Tsoukas, M. MD, PhD. (2022). Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
• [i] It is not recommended to use Retinol during pregnancy.
• If you suspect vitamin A poisoning, it is always advisable to seek medical advice.