Music of the future from Medicadermis's crystal ball

The skincare market in the Netherlands is experiencing modest growth. In 2023, the market was estimated at approximately 890 million euros, with an expected annual growth of just over 3% at the time. Globally, growth of around 6% was predicted until 2032. The rising popularity of cosmeceuticals—products at the intersection of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals—is stimulating interest. Younger consumers, in particular, are increasingly interested in premium skincare. Skin health, aging, anti-aging, and self-care also play a role.

In addition, interest in natural, organic, and plant-based ingredients is growing. Innovations in formulations, online sales, nanoparticles as a delivery system, and personalized skincare are developments to watch. However, the fact that an ingredient is natural or technologically innovative does not necessarily prove that it is safer or more effective.

Boring? Maybe! But developments are moving fast. So we want, no, we need to know what awaits us as 'skinnies'. Now and in the near future.

Sun's a bitch

Skin rejuvenation remains an important area of ​​research. Scientists are looking for ways to better protect the skin against damage and to influence processes associated with skin aging. One of the substances being investigated is nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN), that is involved in the production of NAD+. Researchers are studying, among other things, whether NMN can play a role in the responses of skin cells to UVB radiation.

That makes NMN interesting, but not yet a proven anti-aging treatment. In particular, the translation of laboratory research into an effective and safe product for human skin requires more research.

What is NMN?

NMN is a molecule that occurs naturally in the body. It is a precursor of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+), a coenzyme that is important for the energy metabolism of cells and is involved in processes related to DNA repair.

As we age, NAD+ levels change in various tissues. Researchers are studying whether supplementation with NMN can influence certain age-related processes. Whether this also leads to visibly fewer wrinkles, more elasticity, or healthier skin in the long term has not yet been established.

NMN and skin health

Researchers at Tokushima University in Japan have looked at NMN in combination with the bacterium, among other things. Lactobacillus fermentum TKSN041. The study focuses on potential protection against UVB-related damage and on the role of NMN in the functioning of skin cells.

The route of administration is also a research question. NMN is highly soluble in water, but that does not mean it easily penetrates the skin barrier. Therefore, special delivery systems, including nanoparticles, are being investigated to deliver NMN to skin cells.

In doing so, researchers study processes such as cell aging, cell division, energy production, and the production of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid helps the skin retain moisture. However, a favorable outcome in a cell model does not automatically mean that a cream containing NMN has the same effect on humans.

The way forward

The initial findings are interesting, but more research is needed to fully understand the effects of NMN on human skin. Larger and carefully designed clinical studies must determine, among other things, which administration form, dosage, and duration of use are effective, and what the situation is regarding long-term safety.

For oral intake, the interaction with metabolism and possibly the gut microbiome is also relevant. For topical application, the skin barrier is a major challenge. These are different research questions that cannot simply be lumped together.

Conclusion

The potential of NMN deserves attention, but a revolution in skincare has not yet been demonstrated. Developments in cell research and delivery systems make it worthwhile to continue following the subject. Ultimately, it comes down to whether a new substance actually makes a difference in sound clinical research in humans.

At Medicadermis, I follow those developments with interest, without anticipating results that have not yet been proven.