IPL or laser hair removal: what is the difference and which suits your skin?

Anyone delving into hair removal will soon find themselves in a discussion about IPL and laser. In this context, IPL is sometimes lumped together as a technique: as if every IPL device does more or less the same thing and a laser is by definition the better choice.

It is not that simple.

There are significant differences between lighting systems. Power, pulse design, filters, cooling, light guides, and the controlled delivery of energy all contribute to determining what a device can do in practice.

A simple IPL device for home use or a limited professional system is therefore not the same as a high-quality medical IPL platform.

At Medicademis, I work with the following for hair reduction: Lumenis M22 IPL system. This is a professional light platform featuring, among other things, Optimal Pulse Technology, various filters, and contact cooling. The technology gives me many options to fine-tune settings to the skin, hair, and treatment area.

That does not mean that IPL is automatically better than every laser. Alexandrite, diode, and Nd:YAG each have their own characteristics and can be an excellent or, conversely, a more suitable choice in certain situations.

But the reverse isn't true either: you can't seriously say that laser is always better than IPL without looking first. which IPL system and which laser you are actually comparing.

As a skin therapist, I therefore look at two things at the same time: the quality and properties of the system, and the skin and hair I want to treat with it.

So for me, the relevant question is not just: IPL or laser? But above all: which system, for which skin, and in which hands?

What is the difference between IPL and laser?

IPL and laser both use light energy to reduce hair, but technically they work differently.

A laser produces light within a very specific wavelength range. For hair reduction, for example, Alexandrite, diode, and Nd:YAG lasers are used.

IPL stands for Intense Pulsed Light. An IPL system produces a broader spectrum of light. Filters determine which part of that spectrum is used.

So, IPL is officially not a laser.

The Dutch Society of Dermatology and Venereology makes the same distinction. It describes IPL as another light technique in which multiple wavelengths are used simultaneously, but also indicates that the effect on the skin is largely comparable to that of laser.

For hair reduction, both techniques ultimately try to achieve the same biological goal: to get sufficient energy into a pigmented hair to permanently damage structures in the hair follicle.

Why the type of IPL system really does make a difference

The term IPL in itself says little about the quality of a treatment.

I think it is important to explain this, because consumers often think that all IPL devices are more or less the same. That is comparable to saying that every camera takes the same photo because they are all cameras.

Professional IPL systems can vary significantly in the way they build up and deliver energy, the available filters, the size of the treatment area, cooling, and the extent to which settings can be adjusted.

The stability of the light pulse is also important.After all, the skin and hair follicle do not react to a marketing term like IPL, but to the energy that actually reaches the tissue.

For Medicademis I use the Lumenis M22. The system utilizes Optimal Pulse Technology, in which energy is delivered in a controlled manner within a pulse. Additionally, various filters and treatment settings are available, and the skin is cooled during the treatment.

For me, that is not a detail. It is actually an important part of why I work with this system.

A comparison between a cheap IPL device and a high-quality laser therefore says little about IPL as a technique. Likewise, a comparison between an excellent medical IPL and a mediocre laser says nothing about all lasers.

The quality of the system is therefore simply part of the assessment.

Is laser better than IPL then?

Not as a general rule.

There is scientific research into long-lasting hair reduction with Alexandrite, diode, Nd:YAG, and IPL. This shows that various light and laser systems can provide long-lasting hair reduction.

However, the scientific literature is less straightforward than many commercial comparisons suggest.

A systematic review of long-term hair reduction ultimately found only five randomized studies that met the chosen criteria, along with 223 participants. The reported reductions varied considerably between techniques and body areas.

That is important.

It does not mean that all devices are created equal. Above all, it means that there is insufficient basis for the simple statement that a certain category of equipment is always the best for every skin, every hair, and every body area.

I would therefore be cautious with clinics that present their device as the universal winner.

How does hair reduction with light work?

A dark hair contains melanin. That pigment can absorb light energy.

That energy is converted into heat. The goal is to get enough heat in and around the hair follicle to damage structures necessary for new hair growth.

That is precisely where the challenge lies.

The skin also contains melanin.

With relatively light skin and thick dark hair, the contrast is strong. The hair then forms a clear target.

With darker skin, the skin also contains more pigment. The treatment therefore requires a different safety margin and sometimes a different technique.

With very light hair, the opposite problem arises: there is too little pigment in the hair to absorb sufficient energy.

It is therefore always an interplay between the device, skin, and hair.

Alexandrite, diode and Nd:YAG

In addition to IPL, various types of lasers are used for hair removal.

Alexandrite It works around 755 nm. Melanin absorbs this wavelength relatively well. As a result, Alexandrite can be very effective on dark hair on relatively light skin.

Diode lasers They often work around 800 to 810 nm, although various versions exist. This technique is also widely used for hair reduction.

Nd:YAG It operates at 1064 nm. This longer wavelength is absorbed relatively less strongly by epidermal melanin and is therefore often used for darker skin types.

These characteristics are relevant, but they don't tell the whole story yet.

Even within the same category, there are various devices, pulse settings, and cooling techniques. A good diode is not the same as every diode, and the same applies to IPL.

Which hairs usually respond best?

Thick dark hairs are usually the clearest target for light and laser hair removal.

For example, dark underarm or bikini line hair contains much more pigment and mass than a fine hair on a cheek.

You see that difference reflected in the treatment.

An area with thick, dark hair can respond much better in the same person than an area with fine hair growth.

That is why I don't just look at color during an intake. The thickness of the hair is at least as important.

Does IPL work on blonde, red, gray, or white hair?

Here lies a clear boundary between light and laser hair removal.

Very light blonde, gray, and white hairs contain too little melanin to serve as a reliable target.

Red hair also often reacts insufficiently predictably.

No expensive device can create pigment that is not present in the hair.

For individual light hairs, electric epilation can therefore be a better option.

IPL or laser on dark skin

For darker skin, the choice of technique becomes especially important.

More pigment in the skin means that the skin itself can also absorb more light energy. This increases the risk of unwanted heat generation and pigment changes if not treated carefully.

The long-pulsed Nd:YAG laser therefore holds an important place in hair reduction for darker skin types.

Professional IPL systems also have various settings, but that does not mean that every skin type is automatically a good indication.

Therefore, I first look at the actual skin type, any sun exposure, and the contrast between skin and hair.

If I believe that a different technology is safer or more logical for a particular skin type, that is simply part of honest treatment advice.

I assess facial hair differently than body hair.

I am more critical, especially of the face.

A few thick dark hairs on the chin or jawline are different from an area with fine downy hair growth.

That has to do with effectiveness, but also with a known side effect of laser and light hair removal: paradoxical hypertrichosis.

In addition, more or coarser hair growth actually occurs in or around the treated area.

A systematic review and meta-analysis involving 9,733 patients found a pooled prevalence of approximately 3 percent. The phenomenon appeared to be strongly associated with treatment of the face and neck. Outside of the face and neck, it occurred only very rarely in the included studies.

That doesn't mean you can't treat facial hair.

It does mean, however, that I do not automatically treat fine facial hair just because someone finds it bothersome.

Sometimes the professional choice is precisely not to treat.

Ingrown hairs and bumps after shaving

For some people, less hair is not the only goal.

They mainly suffer from ingrown hairs, red razor bumps, inflamed hair follicles, or dark spots that remain after an inflammation.

Then I look not only at how much hair someone wants to remove, but also at the impact of shaving, friction, and recurring inflammation on the skin.

When thick, dark hairs repeatedly become ingrown, reducing the number of hairs can also reduce the trigger for new ingrowth.

Read also: ingrown hairs, razor bumps and folliculitis

Why are multiple treatments necessary?

Hair grows in different phases.

Light and laser hair removal is particularly effective when hairs are in a suitable active growth phase.

Not all hairs are in that phase at the same time. Therefore, a series of treatments is necessary to target a different group of active hairs each time.

The growth cycle also differs by body area.

That is one of the reasons why I do not promise a standard number of treatments for every area.

An armpit, lower leg, and face do not behave the same biologically.

Permanent hair removal or long-term hair reduction?

The term permanent hair removal is widely used, but I think long-lasting hair reduction fairer.

With professional light and laser systems, the number of hairs can be significantly reduced for a long time. Moreover, hairs that grow back can become finer.

However, complete and lifelong removal of every hair is not guaranteed.

Hormones, age, and other biological factors can influence hair growth again later.

The NVDV also indicates that complete and permanent removal is often not possible.

Is a more powerful device automatically better?

No. But a high-quality and sufficiently powerful system is certainly important.

I want to make that difference conscious.

Insufficient effective energy in the hair follicle can lead to unsatisfactory results. At the same time, simply using more and more energy is not the solution, because the surrounding skin must also be protected.

A good professional system therefore gives the practitioner not only capacity, but above all control.

Control over pulse build-up, settings, filtering, and cooling.

That is ultimately much more interesting than the highest number on a screen.

Why a tanned skin makes a difference

Sun-tanned skin contains more active pigment.

This means that the skin can also absorb more of the used light energy.

As a result, the margin between effective treatment and unwanted skin reactions becomes smaller.

Therefore, I always ask about recent sun exposure before a treatment and assess the skin before treating.

Sometimes that means that a treatment must be postponed.

Why I chose Lumenis M22

For me, equipment is not an afterthought.

I deliberately chose the Lumenis M22 platform because I want to work with a professional system that allows me to set various parameters in a controlled manner and adapt the treatment to the skin and indication.

For hair reduction, I use the system's IPL technology. With various filters, pulse settings, and cooling, I can tailor the treatment to the characteristics of the skin and hair.

However, a good device does not take over the professional assessment.

The system is technically capable of a lot, but I decide whether it is also wise to use it with the person opposite me.

I actually think that is the most important combination: good technology and critical indication.

So: what is better, IPL or laser hair removal?

I find the statement "laser is better than IPL" too simplistic.

It would be just as simple to say that IPL is always better than laser.

There are good and less good systems within both categories. Additionally, Alexandrite, diode, Nd:YAG, and professional IPL each have their own technical characteristics.

That is why I prefer to look at the complete combination:

• which system is used;
• which skin is being treated;
• what type of hair is present;
• which body area is involved;
• which settings are selected;
• and who assesses and treats.

Thick, dark underarm hair on fair skin requires a different assessment than fine hair growth on the cheek or thick hair on a darker skin type.

Therefore, the question has Which system, for which skin, and in which hands? For me, it has more value than just the IPL or laser label.

IPL hair removal at Medicadermis in The Hague

Would you like to know if your hair is suitable for IPL treatment? During an initial appointment, I will assess your skin type, hair color and thickness, the body area, and any skin issues such as ingrown hairs, folliculitis, or pigmentation.

After that, I can explain whether treatment with my Lumenis M22 is worthwhile, what results are realistic, and how I would structure the process.

If I expect little result or find another technique more sensible, I will discuss that as well.

View IPL hair removal at Medicadermis in The Hague

Frequently asked questions about IPL and laser hair removal

Is IPL the same as laser?

No. Laser works with a specific wavelength range. IPL uses a broader spectrum of light that is selected with filters. Both techniques can be used for long-lasting hair reduction.

Is laser better than IPL?

Not automatically. The system used, skin type, hair color, hair thickness, body area, and settings all contribute to the result. Therefore, a high-quality professional IPL cannot simply be compared to just any other IPL device.

Does the brand or type of IPL device make a difference?

Yes. IPL systems differ in pulse structure, available filters, energy output, cooling, and setting options, among other things. Therefore, the term IPL alone says insufficient about the quality or capabilities of a system.

Which laser is used for dark skin?

The long-pulsed Nd:YAG laser is often used on darker skin types due to the properties of the 1064 nm wavelength. The final choice must always be made on an individual basis.

Does IPL work on blonde or gray hair?

Very light blonde, white, and gray hair usually contain too little melanin for reliable treatment with IPL or laser.

Can IPL treat facial hair?

Yes, but not every type of facial hair is a good indicator. With fine vellus hair, I am more cautious due to a less predictable response and the risk of paradoxical hair growth.

How many IPL treatments are needed?

Multiple treatments are necessary because not all hairs are in a suitable growth phase at the same time. The required number varies per person and body area.

Can IPL help with ingrown hairs?

For recurring ingrown hairs, reducing thick, dark hairs can help reduce a major cause of new ingrowth. First, however, I assess whether the skin is calm enough and the hairs are suitable for treatment.

Literature and sources

• Dutch Society for Dermatology and Venereology. Laser treatment with a hair removal laser .
• Krasniqi A, McClurg DP, Gillespie KJ, Rajpara S. Efficacy of lasers and light sources in long-term hair reduction: a systematic review . Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy. 2022.
• Snast I, Kaftory R, ​​Lapidoth M, Levi A. Paradoxical Hypertrichosis Associated with Laser and Light Therapy for Hair Removal: A Systematic Review and Meta-analysis . American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2021.
• Lumenis. M22 Universal IPL technology . Technical information about the M22 IPL platform used.

About the author

Charlotte de Deugd is a skin therapist and owner of Medicadermis in The Hague. In her practice, she treats unwanted hair growth, ingrown hairs, acne, redness, and pigmentation problems, among other things. For hair reduction, she works with the Lumenis M22 IPL system and assesses beforehand whether the skin, hair, and treatment area are suitable for treatment.